I got a killswitch... has anyone else tried one?

So I installed a killswitch in my car. It’s got a key fob that remotely activates it. It works for gas models only, and it’s plug and play – installation took around 5 minutes. It fits in a few Kia and Hyundai models. DM me if you’re interested.

installs in 5 minutes… Famous last words.

susanbauer said:

installs in 5 minutes… Famous last words.

Haha, you’re right… Pop the hood in 10 seconds, pop the fuse cover in 20 seconds, remove the factory relay and drop in the new relay in 30 seconds, connect the wires to the battery in 2 minutes. Hiding excess wiring is up to you…

@Cruise
Just messing around, most people would take 30 minutes just to find their tools…

@Cruise
If anything goes wrong, be sure to remove it before taking it to the dealer. I read a review where someone’s warranty was voided because of a similar disconnect installed.

fatilo said:
@Cruise
If anything goes wrong, be sure to remove it before taking it to the dealer. I read a review where someone’s warranty was voided because of a similar disconnect installed.

I remove mine when I go to the dealer. It only takes about 5 minutes: two bolts, pull the relay, then swap it back with the original relay. There’s no reason this should cause any issues. You’re just bypassing a ground pin. If we were bypassing the positive current, then there might be trouble, but that’s not the case here.

fatilo said:
@Cruise
If anything goes wrong, be sure to remove it before taking it to the dealer. I read a review where someone’s warranty was voided because of a similar disconnect installed.

Also, if the device ever malfunctions, you won’t be stranded, just keep the original relay in the car.

susanbauer said:

installs in 5 minutes… Famous last words.

:rofl::rofl::rofl: so true

I hope someone steals my Sportage, it’s got engine problems :joy:

KintaKinta said:
I hope someone steals my Sportage, it’s got engine problems :joy:

LOL! What issues are you having? What year is your Sportage? How many miles? Mine’s a 2023 with 28k miles, no issues so far.

@Cruise
It’s a 2017, 190,000 km. It leaks oil, the seat is split, the back hatch is split, and more. Some of these problems started at 25-30k km.

KintaKinta said:
@Cruise
It’s a 2017, 190,000 km. It leaks oil, the seat is split, the back hatch is split, and more. Some of these problems started at 25-30k km.

Wow, that sounds rough. I hope it gets fixed or someone takes it :joy:. Mine’s still pretty new, fingers crossed that I don’t run into as many issues. Knock on wood :crossed_fingers:

@Cruise
Thanks! I hope you don’t run into any problems.

Just lock the steering wheel and put an AirTag on it.

How much quiescent current does it draw? What’s its IP rating? Does it have back EMF protection to match the relay you removed? Are the components durable enough for automotive use? Is it sealed against vibration?

@Miles
It’s pretty basic. The switch is a 12V switch rated for 30 amps, but I’m not passing current to the relay, just grounding it.

Cruise said:
@Miles
It’s pretty basic. The switch is a 12V switch rated for 30 amps, but I’m not passing current to the relay, just grounding it.

That didn’t really answer my questions. These devices work similarly, but they can cause problems in different ways. It seems like you’re messing with the starter relay’s control. How exactly do you modify the relay? Is it just a plug for the OEM relay, or does the new relay do the switching?

@Miles
It’s the OEM relay, but I snip the ground pin so it doesn’t make contact with the vehicle. Instead, I send ground from another relay. It’s simple. The fob connects to a wireless relay switch that gets power from the battery. There’s an in-line fuse between the battery and the switch. The second relay converts the positive battery signal into a ground signal, which gets soldered to the pin where the ground was removed. If you’re worried about water, well, if your engine bay is that wet, you’ve got bigger issues than a wireless killswitch.

@Cruise
None of the relay pins go directly to ground. The relay coil is connected to the ECM, which controls power and ground. You said your relay swaps polarity for the ground, which bypasses the vehicle’s control of the starter. Will ISG or remote start still work with your system installed?

Edit: The electronics don’t need to be submerged to get damaged by water. Humidity and dew can still cause issues.

@Miles
When I go to the car, I push the ‘on’ button on the remote. This sends the ground signal to the modified OEM relay, which allows the starter to activate. When I leave, I push the ‘off’ button, which cuts the ground signal and prevents anyone from starting the car.